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MJT

My island is an entire country of
its own. It bears something great
and grand. It reserves liveliness, a
stress-free fast pace with no sign of
that slow, relaxed motion of the small
aegean islands. Be prepared to eat well
everywhere. Even at the most remote
little village, you may find a delicious
meze and a glass of ouzo.
I arrive at the main town. I start
strolling around it. On the wharf,
at the port, I explore the narrow
alleyways all around, the market,
and I reach the starting point. The
town and the entire island is imbued
with the smell of the angels’ local
drink. It is called ouzo and goes with
everything. Down town and all year
long I buy tsoureki at Maskotitsa
(+30 22510 47700, maskwtitsa.gr). It
smells sweet of mahleb, cardamom
and mastic. I like its doughiness
and moisture; they’re just the
right amount. The grocery store of
Skopelitis (+30 22510 26639)
at Bas Fanar fills my basket with
olives, local legumes, ladotiri cheese
from Mytilene and Adalis’ yogurt
of Mantamados in the “gragouda”
(clay pot). I stop by Ermis’ taverna
(+30 22510 26232) for the first ouzo
of the day. The environment takes
you back to other eras preserving its
authenticity as an old coffee shop
with its leather sofas and wooden
carved mirrors. I wouldn’t miss it for
the world. Its dried green pea fava
soaked in local olive oil and the cured
meats simply whet my appetite. For
the main meal I choose Refenes in
Apano Skala (+30 22510 55701),
next to the tarsanas (shipyard) and
behind the Castle of Gatelouzi. Right
across, there it is, Asia Minor. Here
you can taste the island’s best raw
material. I was mesmerised by a
white seabream grilled on excellent
olive wood coal. The zucchini, green
beans and collard taste as if drizzled

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